Roganic, Marylebone

L’Enclume owner Simon Rogan has returned to his London roots with the launch of Roganic, an ‘extended pop-up’ in Marylebone run by his head chef Ben Spalding. Despite the pokey dining room
minimalist layout, the 25-cover space is surprisingly comfortable, with tables spread out to eliminate the risk of elbow battles eavesdropping. L’Enclume, in Cumbria, made its name with
Rogan’s flair for combining endless innovation with impeccable ingredients, the lesser-known herbs vegetables on Roganic’s no-choice tasting menu will keep even the most anoraky of
foodie geeks on their toes with its recherche use of hyssop chenopodiums. These are challenging dishes, with some brave combinations: warm spiced bread is paired with an intense smoked
clotted cream a tart buckthorn curd; roasted brill is served with ‘chicken salt’, cockles and ruby chard. Not everything hits the spot, but what’s on offer is fresh, earthy honest, with
immaculate presentation, while knowledgeable, friendly staff deliver faultless service.

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